Happee Monkee

I got bored of Yokohama fairly quick. It isn’t my cup of tea. I’m a culture girl. I love old buildings. I dig tradition ( I am a Capricorn after all) and I love a good story. Newer cities like Yokohama (only just 150 years) is a baby compared to ancient cities like Kamakura.

An hour by train, Kamakura was the political capital of Japan during the Kamakura shogunate, from 1185 to 1333. It’s exactly what I need. You’ll find a balance of city, wooded hills and seaside beaches here. The shrines and temples are well-preserved, albeit a little lacking in English information. The locals are a helpful batch though so if you ever need some assistance, they are always ready to explain in halting English.

I chose to take the path less traveled by walking from Kita-Kamakura station to Yuigahama Beach – approximately 4km hike through tree-rooted hills. By the time I get to the beach I am a sweaty heap. So if you do plan to go on this route, do please wear comfortable rubber sneakers (for grip), comfortable clothes (best in shorts), snacks and a frozen water bottle wrapped in a small hand towel.  This is a good trick I accidentally discovered. The towel keeps the ice from melting too quickly and doubles as a cool refreshing hanky. In this bloody humidity, it works gratefully well.

FYI, you won’t be able to cover Kamakura by foot. So if you plan to finish Kamakura in one day, it’s best to use the public transportation.

The hike begins at Tokeiji temple, ending near Kotokuin, or better known as, The Great Buddha. For some reason, it has another name – Daibutsu and you’ll find that the signs interchanges between the two. The route can be a little quiet and I found myself alone in the forest on more than a few occasions. I met some locals going on the trail as their daily exercise (while I was seriously panting) and a few tourists but little else. So if you’re not up for that sort of adventure, I do advise to have a friend along. But if you’re a jungle Jane, you will have no problem. I especially loved the the ginormous floaty black butterflies and bird-calls.

The hike passes Zeniarai Benten Shrine, where you can put your money in a little bamboo basket and swish some holy spring water on it. The Japanese believe that the money washing ceremony helps to multiply whatever money that is washed there. From Zeniarai Benzaiten, it is a 2km walk to the Great Buddha (Kotokuin / Daibutsu). A little climbing is required. On the scale of 0 – 10 ( 10 being absurdly difficult), it’s about a 7. But if you’re fit and have done super marathons, this is easy breezy for you.

This bronze statue is the second largest in Japan (second to Nara’s Todaiji). Personally, besides the awesome size of the Buddha and a pair of slippers, there was little to stay around for. But as you leave the temple, walk down the street towards Hasedera, also known as Hase Kannon, and you’ll find a few shops selling murasaki (sweet purple potato) flavored soft serves. Definitely worth your ¥400.

Saving the best for last, Hase Kannon was the best-looking temple on the trail. (Please note that I specifically said ‘on the trail’ as there are dozen more temples around Kamakura. And since I have yet to visit those, I cannot compare Hase Kannon to the rest). By now, my knees are wobbly and people are probably standing a distant from me. I wouldn’t even touch myself with a ten foot pole. But time is precious and Hase Kannon is big. If you climb up (more stairs!) you have the magnificent view of the beach. The houses down below look picturesque and the wind is delicious.

Go down to the cave and you’ll see the dimly litted and interesting statues of Benzaiten. One part of the slightly claustrophobic grotto holds tiny weeny Benzaiten statues which you can buy for ¥300 for ‘dedication’. I assume you don’t take them home as previous visitors have placed it around the area. Please enlighten me if you know what it means.

Finished with my tour, I sat at the beach for a good 30 minutes relishing the wind and crashing waves. My legs now feels like lead and my thighs are really, really sore. My makeup is unrecognizable and my hair is in sweaty clumps. All I want is to remain undisturbed and silent for a few minutes before I make my way home to Shin-Yokohama. And though the beach isn’t the best-looking beach in the whole wide world, to me it is. I am satisfied. Spent and templed out for today but I know I’ll be back to Kamakura for more.

Visiting a Shrine by Lonely Planet Tokyo

Just past the torii (shrine gate) is a chozuya (water trough), with long-handled ladles perched on a rack above. This is for purifying yourself before entering the sacred precincts of the shrine. If you choose to purify yourself, take a ladle, fill it with fresh water from the spigot, pour some over one hand, transfer the spoon and pour water over the other hand. Then pour a little water into a cupped hand and rinse your mouth, spitting the water onto the ground beside the trough.

Head to the haiden (hall of worship), which sits in front of the honden (main hall) enshrining the kami (shrine god). Toss a coin into the offerings box, ring the gong by pulling on the thick rope in order to summon the deity, pray, then clap your hands twice, bow and then back away from the shrine.

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